In Stock form the C5 Corvette Steering Rack isn't renown for it's steering feel, but it's surprisingly good for a car of it's vintage. While some wanna-be auto journalists would critic or praise the "On Center Steering Feel" of the C5, those of us with the car know the stock steering wheel is too big for the car and makes steering slow. While going to a smaller wheel helps speed it up, it's still not all the way there for autocross. Turn1 also does a 30% Faster Rebuilt Rack which we're interested in checking out further down the road.
The corvette we'll be writing about today features the FDF Steering Rack Brace, fully installed with Delrin bushings similar to what we have in our article on the topic. The car also features full Delrin Bushings, new Ball Joints, New Tie Rod ends, and a FRESH corner balance + alignment.
Despite all of these suspension adjustments, the car still had a wide dead-zone in the middle. It feels as if the Pinion of my Steering rack is either JUST on the left or JUST on the right, as it's just a tooth off of either way but it varies depending on the most recent direction change.
If your car does something similar, we have the answer!
If you aren't familiar with steering racks, the above picture is a basic visual above to show just what you're dealing with. There's of course some hydraulic power steering assistance in the mix, but the jist is captured above.
First, try the simple fix. On your steering shaft going into the rack there's 1 bolt. This bolt is hard to get to from some angles but it's as simple as removing it, putting on some Blue Threadlocker and tightening it back down to 26 ftlbs (factory) or follow many folks recommendation of 30 ft-lbs.
This is right below your alternator so you may need to remove it to get a good angle with your extension on the torque wrench or ratchet. It can be done without pulling the alternator but it's easier to see with the alternator removed.
This however didn't fix this C5 Corvettes particular center dead zone. Instead, it was discovered that the Steering Rack Preload Nut itself had loosened up over the 23 years + 92k miles. And the last person to wrench on this car is calling themselves an idiot for not messing with this when it was already out of the car.
While the rack is out it's super simple to access the Jam Nut. It's approximately a 1-3/4 socket. It needs to be loosened to be able to adjust the PreLoad Bolt (22mm) to snug things up.
The Bolt is Righty Tighty & the Hex nut is Counter Clockwise (Lefty Loosey). Under the bolt is this spring that you're adjusting the tension on. If your steering rack is still installed or just don't want to pull the rack to do this then you can fight the car to get to it without a ton of hassle.
By lifting the front of your car up and dropping your sway bar mounts (13mm) you can Loosen the Jam nut with a Screw Driver from this position (hit the side on the right). You may want to use some Penetrating Fluid of Choice first. Once you knock the exterior Jam Nut loose you can just BARELY get a 22mm wrench on the nut to turn it slightly. You may need to turn your steering wheel hard left to give you room.
Being a 99+ car, this C5 Corvette had the ABS Pump above this bolt so we had to remove the two 13mm bolts on the bottom & the 18mm bolt+nut to wiggle mine slightly to give clearance for my wrench.
GM wants you to use a specialty Tool for this nut, and their directions are simple. You tighten the bolt just snug. Mark it, then back it off 50-70 degrees. Now we're not Rocket Scientists, but on a 6 sided bolt, each flat spot is 60 degrees. So just back it off 1 flat. Then use your specialty Screw Driver tool and snug up the Lock Nut and give it a few wacks the other way to tighten it. The factory spec if 50 ft lbs for the Lock Nut but German Spec "GoodnTight" is fine for it.
If you're obsessive you could mark the bolt turn it exactly 1 flap, then mark it again to ensure it doesn't move. Then turn your locknut back into position. If you're more of a Video Guide person, here's a good video showing it off the car. Super simple, no need for the whole preload nut to come out.
Now go post about how amazing your steering feels & how glad you are to not use a specialty tool!
